Saturday, December 12, 2009

Are MyChelle’s Claims about the New Supreme Polypeptide Cream True?

[My introductory remarks about the new MyChelle Supreme Polypeptide Cream formula ran yesterday .]

• Powerful antioxidants and organic oils? True.
• Combined with cutting edge peptides? True – sort of.
• Strengthens the dermal epidermal junction (DEJ) supporting a firmer texture? True – and so did the old formula.

Powerful Antioxidants and Organic Oils
MyChelle has added lots of botanical and vitamin antioxidants which are certainly good for aging skin (Pea Peptide Extract, Black Currant Seed Oil, Rice Peptide Extract, Palm) Oil, Tocotrienols) plus lots of new emollients and NMFs (Sunflower Seed Oil, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jojoba Seed Oil, C 18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Palm Oil).

Combined with Cutting Edge Peptides
The multiple references to peptides in the ads are a bit misleading, in my opinion. They likely attract consumer attention because of the popularity of anti-aging peptides.

However, not all peptides are anti-aging in the sense of possessing skin remodeling functions (muscle-inhibiting, anti-glycation, collagen-protecting, collagen-stimulating, cell life-extending).

Strictly defined, a peptide is a molecule of two or more amino acids. Peptides are smaller than protein chains of amino acids and therefore penetrate the epidermis more readily. The definition says nothing about a particular peptide’s function.

You may have been surprised to see two of the new peptides (Pea and Rice) listed as antioxidants. They’re still good for skin. However, they’re skin-protective, not skin-remodeling, peptides.

Pea and Rice Peptides aside, that leaves Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 as the single replacement for the dual skin remodeling peptide Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7).

PP-4 is a wrinkle plumping peptide that works by stimulating new collagen. PT-7 controls the body’s inflammatory response (as your own hormones did in younger days). The effect is to reverse sagging of skin caused by out-of-control inflammation (glycation damage) thereby restoring skin elasticity and lifting facial contours.

The new peptide in MyChelle Supreme, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, is similar in function to PP-4, but more powerful. In vitro studies have shown Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to increase collagen synthesis by 119% compared to about 70% for PP-4.

So in the old formula you had the benefit of two skin-remodeling peptides with distinct functions (collagen stimulation and glycation reversal), while in the new formula you get the benefit of a more powerful collagen stimulant.

Come back tomorrow for the conclusion.

Tags: effective topical antioxidants, peptide functions, peptide definition,

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